Surf photography Beginners Tips

Gabriel Medina, Teahupoo

Surfing is one of the most fulfilling sports in the world, without exception. The physicality and aptitude in plain view by world-class surfers pushing the limits of what is humanly conceivable on gigantic waves is a visual devour for any picture taker. Along these lines, there has been a swell of enthusiasm for surf photography. From detonating waves to surfers propelling down immense wave faces, the quantity of picture takers intrigued by surf photography has developed exponentially. In this article, we’ll examine the fundamental strategies and what’s included when taking off to shoot surfing.

There are normally three different ways to photo surfing. To start with, you can shoot from the shoreline or a close-by wharf. Second, you can shoot from a watercraft or a stream ski. Both of these initial two alternatives utilize a zooming focal point to shoot from a separation. Third, you can get in the water and shoot from inside the wave or under it. In every situation, there are diverse contemplations as to the gear required, making the picture, centring the camera and accomplishing an exact presentation.

Shooting From The Beach Or A Pier

Working from the shoreline or a close-by dock is the most straightforward choice with regards to shooting surfing, and it typically requires a major focal point, more often than not a 600mm focal point or the proportionate. Except if you are Arnold Schwarzenegger, you’ll additionally require a strong tripod and ball head or a gimbal head that can manage such a huge focal point.

In the past times, getting these long central lengths implied utilizing a 500mm f/4 or a 600mm f/4 focal point. These days, there are many littler and considerably less costly choices like the present yield of 150-600mm zoom focal points. One basic factor to consider while picking a focal point is that self-adjust speed and precision will be tried while shooting surfing. As far as I can tell, anything other than the best zooming focal points will miss self-adjust more frequently than I might want, which is the reason I generally lease a best end 400mm f/2.8, 500mm f/4 or 600mm f/4 focal point when shooting from the shoreline. I profoundly suggest hanging a towel over your focal point and camera to shield them from getting worked over by the destructive sea shower.

Surf photography, Mark Healey drops in on a major wave

Check Healey dropping in on a major wave at the 2009/2010 Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau enormous wave surfing rivalry in Waimea Bay, Hawaii. On these 40-to 50-foot waves, the surfers would free succumb to 10 or 15 feet before they even hit the wave confront, which made for stunning pictures. Shot from the shoreline.

Nikon D700, AF-S NIKKOR 500mm f/4E FL ED VR, Gitzo tripod, Wimberley gimbal head.

Introduction: 1/2500 sec., ƒ/7.1, ISO 400.

Notwithstanding a long focal point, a camera that can shoot at a quick edge rate will be basic to get the brief moment activity. I suggest a camera that can shoot at eight edges for every second or quicker. The speedier the casing rate, the higher the possibility of catching the tallness of the activity. The other side of this, however, is a quicker camera will deliver more pictures to experience sometime later. By and large, on the off chance that you shoot an entire day, you can hope to have three to four thousand pictures or more to alter. Actually, on the off chance that you are not catching a large number of pictures, at that point, you are feeling the loss of a great deal of would-be-stunning surf activity pictures.

Another issue is remaining prepared to shoot at any minute. On the shoreline, there are a ton of diversions, and following a couple of hours, it is anything but difficult to fall into a break. Since the surfers are getting waves voluntarily, you have to remain sharp and give careful consideration for that brief moment when they go for a wave. Any slip in your fixation could cost you the absolute best of the day. Also, with such a major focal point, you must glance through the viewfinder and prepared to shoot before the activity begins, or you will have effectively missed the shot.

To get sharp pictures, I set the self-adjust to persistent mode so the camera will consistently modify the concentration as the surfer advances toward me. To make, I pick a centre point where I need the surfer to be in my edge and afterwards put that point on the surfer, being aware of the shape and size of the wave. When all is said in done, you need to see the whole wave as it twists up over the surfer—particularly on the off chance that it is a major wave. Nikon’s 3D Focus Tracking, which is the thing that I ordinarily utilize nowadays, liberates you up from concentrating on keeping the AF point over the subject and truly helps when forming. Note that I additionally shoot at shade velocities of 1/2000 sec. or then again quicker to solidify the activity.

Surf photography, Michael Ho rides the wave

Michael Ho attempting to remain in front of a major wave at the 2009/2010 Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau huge wave surfing rivalry in Waimea Bay, Hawaii. This picture was shot from the patio of a house that is spot on the point where the wave breaks.

Nikon D700, AF-S NIKKOR 500mm f/4E FL ED VR, Gitzo tripod, Wimberley gimbal head.

Presentation: 1/3200 sec., ƒ/7.1, ISO 400.

To discover diverse edges, it is sufficiently simple to stroll here and there the shoreline, however in the event that you escape you’ll require a 1.4x teleconverter to help pull in the far-off surfer. How you position yourself with respect to the wave relies upon the surf break and what you are going for. In the event that you position yourself opposite to the wave, at that point you’ll have the capacity to shoot the two sides of the wave if there is a left and right break or surfers are dropping in “off the divider.” If you need to see the surfer in the tube, at that point you’ll need to stroll down the shoreline for an edge that gives you a chance to see into the tube. In the event that there is a close-by wharf or breakwater, either can offer an extraordinary method to fix up parallel with the wave, which is a generally troublesome recommendation.

Regardless of where you shoot from, the key thing to remember when making the picture is that you generally need more space before the surfer than behind them. This is a run of the mill dependable guideline while capturing any game however particularly so when shooting surfing. For surfing, this winds up precarious when the surfers cut back on the wave and change their body position. W­­­­hen the surfer curtails the wave, rapidly recomposing so that there is more space behind them is key for the structure. If all else fails, I suggest shooting all the more freely with a more extensive focal point (possibly a 400mm rather than 600mm) and afterwards editing sometime later.

Surf Photography From A Boat Or Jet Ski

Capturing surfing from a pontoon or the back of a stream ski offers a fantastic vantage point. Working from a watercraft or a fly ski isn’t entirely different than shooting from the shore, however, it adds a few intricacies. You need to manage the movement of the ocean, getting into and keeping up your position, and securing your camera.

Surf photography, taken from a watercraft in Tahiti

This picture was shot from a watercraft in Tahiti at Teahupo’o, which is one of the world’s most acclaimed waves. As can be seen here, the viewpoint from the vessel enables us to shoot straight into the wave, giving a very surprising vantage point than is conceivable when shooting from the shoreline.

Nikon D700, AF-S NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II @ 180mm.

Introduction: 1/3200 sec., ƒ/5.6, ISO 400.

To manage the movement of the waves, it’s sufficiently simple to shoot with a high shade speed and select focal points with worked in picture adjustment. To keep up your position, it is a smart thought to have another person driving the watercraft or fly ski. On a pontoon, you likely won’t require anything to secure your camera, yet when working from a fly ski, I suggest utilizing a surf lodging and a focal point port that works with a 70-200mm zoom focal point.

On a fly ski, a 70-200mm zoom will, as a rule, get the job done since you are for the most part nearer to the wave than when on a watercraft. In the event that you are on a vessel, you presumably require more reach—either a 300mm or a 100-400mm zoom.

One final note: If you are on a fly ski in huge surf, it is very prescribed that you are prepared to swim at any minute. On the off chance that you are in this circumstance, the chances are high that you are a surfer, however for the uninitiated, having your surf blades on and your camera in a surf lodging would be the fundamental security insurances. At any minute while sitting on the back of a stream ski, particularly while going over huge waves, you could get ejected and be compelled to swim.

One of the upsides of shooting from a vessel is that you are higher off the water and can get this wild vantage focuses (like in this picture) where you are gazing down into the barrel of the wave. This is another picture shot in Tahiti at Teahupo’o.

Shooting In The Water

One of the greatest choices any surfing picture taker needs to make when they get to the area is whether to shoot from the shoreline or a pontoon or to get into the water. In actuality, the choice may be made for you relying upon the span of the waves and your swimming aptitudes. Getting into the water requires a completely extraordinary range of abilities than shooting from the shoreline. It absolutely helps in the event that you are a surfer, so you can judge when and where the surfers will unbelievably down or over the wave. Since you will ordinarily need to swim a reasonable separation from the shoreline in sizable waves, it is a basic that you are an exceptionally solid swimmer and fit as a fiddle. There is some genuine strategy required to get yourself into a wave securely and snapping the screen as the surfer comes past you.

Surfing picture takers take a beating to get pictures while treading water at nearness to surfers and know exactly when they have to pull through the back of the wave to remain out of inconvenience. It might appear glaringly evident, yet I’d suggest you relax and enhance your aptitudes in tolerably estimated waves on the off chance that you are simply beginning to shoot surfing from the water. I’d likewise exceptionally prescribe wearing a hard-shell surf cap and a couple of bodysurfing blades. The protective cap will spare your life on the off chance that you misconstrue the separation and speed of the surfer and get whacked in the head by a surf blade.

Surf photography, shooting from the water with a waterproof housing
For this image, I was trying to get an over/under surf image. The waves this day at Sunset Beach on the north shore of Oahu weren’t that big, which is what allowed me to position myself right in front of the wave. The whole point of this image is to show the razor sharp reef just 6 feet below the surface of the water. By using a fisheye lens and a fisheye port on my surf housing, I was able to catch both the surfer above the water and the reef below.

When shooting in the water, a surf water housing is required. Surf housings are waterproof down to around 35 feet or so. Because you will have to swim through oncoming waves, the lighter the surf housing, the better. There are a number of surf housing manufacturers, including AquaTech, SPL, CMT and Liquid Eye, among others. A pistol grip is required to hold the camera in position, and a leash will keep you from losing the camera in heavy surf. Lastly, be sure to get a lens port for a fisheye and a 70-200mm zoom lens if you want to shoot from a jet ski or outside the wave. Because each housing is specific to the camera model, choose your housing wisely and pay close attention when inserting your camera into the housing to avoid having your camera flooded, which is an extremely expensive nightmare. I would also highly recommend using larger 64GB or 128GB memory cards so that you don’t run out of memory space while out in the water.

In general, the go-to lens for surf photography while in the water is a fisheye lens. When using a fisheye, you’ll want to turn off the autofocus and use a hyperfocal distance method to make sure everything you point the camera at is in focus. To make sure that your foreground (i.e., the wave) is still sharp, you’ll want to modify your hyperfocal focus so that you are just off the infinity mark on your lens. The odds are good that you’ll be close enough so that the surfer is only about 10 to 20 feet away, not at infinity, so this method works quite well. A good trick is to tape the focus ring on your lens (with gaffer’s tape) before you put it in the surf housing so that when you are getting rolled around like a cat in a washing machine, the hyperfocal distance focus setting doesn’t shift inside the housing.

When using a surf housing, you’ll have to set most of your camera’s settings before you get into the water, particularly the ISO. Because it is sometimes darker inside the wave, I would suggest setting the camera to ISO 400 (or use Auto ISO) and using a small aperture like ƒ/8 or ƒ/11 to get as much depth of field as possible. When working with a fisheye lens, I shoot for ƒ/11 if I can get it. I typically have my camera in Aperture priority mode, so that the aperture stays fixed and I use an appropriate ISO setting to make sure the shutter speed is fast enough to stop the motion. Some cameras allow for setting a minimum shutter speed when using Auto ISO; if yours has that feature, I would highly recommend using it.

Surf photography from below the water with a waterproof housing
Diving under the surfers offers a unique perspective. In this image, the surfer is waiting for a wave, and I dove under her to show what it looks like from beneath the surface. Note that this image was shot on the north shore of Oahu in Hawaii, so the water there is very clear, which is key to getting an image like this.
Nikon D4, AF Fisheye-Nikkor 16mm f/2.8D, CMT carbon fibre surf housing with a fisheye port.
Exposure: 1/3200 sec., ƒ/5.6, ISO 800.

One of the recent trends in surf photography is a pulled-back look using a 50mm lens and moving farther away from the action to show the entire wave. Another alternative is to shoot with a 70-200mm lens while sitting outside the wave. When using anything other than a fisheye, I recommend that you engage the autofocus while shooting in the water. One of the big issues when shooting in the water is that there might be quite a few other photographers trying to shoot with fisheye lenses—especially at the famous surf breaks like Pipeline and elsewhere. Good communication, both with the other photographers and with the surfers is key for everyone’s safety.

Lastly, if you are looking to get epic surf images, I recommend travelling to well-known surf breaks. Hawaii, Tahiti, Indonesia, Fiji, Australia, California and Mexico all have some of the world’s top surf breaks. All of the images included with this article were shot in either Hawaii or Tahiti. Showing up during a big swell at a famous surf break makes a huge difference—and more than likely the best surfers in the world will rally to those locations as well.